Sunday, September 30, 2007

Sydney To Dundas

Epiphany is moored at Bridge 177, just before Dundas Wharf
4.31 miles, 2 hours, 2.14 l/mph

We left Sydney Wharf at about 11am. It was not without a slight sadness as we had really enjoyed our time there, both on the way down and then the last 2 days. It may be a while before we are back, by boat anyway.

We didn’t go far! We moored below the Sydney Gardens footbridge and walked through the gardens, along Bathwick Road and onto London Road to Morrisons. We needed to shop! It is about a 10-minute walk from there. Returning laden we had lunch and then set off “proper”.

We “ticked over” through all the moored boats until Bathampton. We met the John Rennie, on a lunch cruise, at The George Pub and gave way again as it came through the bridge!

We waved goodbye to Danny, skipper of the day and continued on to Dundas. We moored just before bridge 177 or some say 8, Dundas Bridge that leads into the Basin and Wharf before the aqueduct.

So time for a wander, over the bridge, past the Wharf and crane and over the lift bridge that is the entrance to the Somerset Coal Canal or as named here the Somersetshire Coal Canal.

We wandered along the canal, past the private moorings and on to the basin – Brass Knocker Basin, just big enough to wind a 57 footer?

We had some good views of the Dundas aqueduct looking back.

How about this for a potted history of the Kennet and Avon Canal?
Have you seen it – if not, if you come this way see if you can find it! - You might need to click on the image in your browser to read it.

We wanted to take some pictures from the other side but at that moment the batteries ran out! So if the weather is decent, maybe tomorrow.

Back on board Yours Truly cooked a slap up meal and now I am absolutely bushed! As my Father used to say, “I'm fatinside”! (Ask Mrs Malaprop for an interpretation.)

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Back On The Kennet And Avon Canal

Epiphany is moored at Sydney Wharf - still.
3.51 miles, 4 hours 54 minutes, 7 locks, 2.14 l/mph

We had a late start on Friday as we had a lovely long phone chat to Craig, as it was his birthday.

After an early lunch we set off for the last lock on the River Avon – Weston Lock. Before we went up the Widcombe flight we turned left into the reach leading to Pulteney weir and bridge. We went under North Parade Bridge.

The view was as impressive from the water as it had been when we viewed it from the Riverside walk in Bath.
Winding below the weir we turned the sharp left corner into the Bath Bottom Lock. It was set against us so I stepped off to do the lock.

I let John take the boat through the Bath Deep Lock. The bottom gates are extremely heavy but luckily some passers by helped “as they had done locks before”. Otherwise I would not have been able to open them, or rather it (we only open one gate) by myself.

Someone recently described the bottom gates as “going through the gates of hell”.

I hope I never find out if that’s true! The chapel roof above the lock does display in large letters “Prepare to meet thy God” so I am not sure what to believe!

It had begun to mizzle but being hardened boaters we didn’t care! Anyway there is always something to shelter under.


I was glad to reach the top lock.


It was good to know that we had a night mooring waiting for us at Sydney Wharf, as there were none above the top lock. We are very fortunate and very grateful that Bath Narrowboats allow us to moor Epiphany there when we visit Bath and proud that we can say that we still believe they built us our dreamboat.

As we said to Richard Clarke when we had a bevy and meal in Bath that evening, there is practically nothing we would change on Epiphany and Jon and his team at the workshop at Sells Green excelled in producing her.

We planned a quiet Saturday and as you see I have now caught up on the blog! We move off tomorrow sometime and start our journey back towards Devizes.

Next Installment

Blog of journey from Bristol to Bridge 208 on the River Avon
12 miles, 3 hours 30 minutes, 7 locks, 5.43 l/mph

On Thursday morning we walked to Underfall Yard

and then around to Cumberland Basin.

The entrance under Junction Lock Bridge.

On the way we passed Old Dock.

There are some of the old buildings in this area giving an idea of how it was before the harbour was created.

I also recognised where we went to pick up our hire boat from Anglo Welsh in 1999.

Only to find that as the river Avon was in flood they would drive us to Dundas, where there was an upgrade waiting for us – Silver Swan. So Dundas to the Thames and back to Newbury was our trip – as I have mentioned as our first experience of the Kennet and Avon canal in previous blogs. The Anglo Welsh fleet was relocated to Sydney Wharf the next year and so we come in a full circle!

It was good to be able to say that at long last we were doing the trip that we missed, even better on our own boat, our home. Little dreamed of then. To look across to see Epiphany moored was almost an emotional moment!

We left Bristol on a breezy sunny morning, winding easily in the Floating Harbour. Cabot Tower was in the distance. New developments and new pontoons are in progress.

We did a quick up and back into St Augustine’s Reach, under Pero’s bridge (a lifting bridge) and then easily passed under Princes Street Bridge.

We had taken down the satellite dish and the Chinese hat this time!

Old, new and restored buildings sit quite well together, lining the river, providing apartments, offices and private moorings. It did have a flavour of Reading, bigger, nicer, and not with the river flow!

Passing through the open Netham Lock and back onto the feeder canal.


Locking through Hanham lock and away from the jurisdiction of the Bristol City Council it felt almost like “coming home” onto BW territory again! We were really glad to have made the trip and would like to do it again sometime.

There are very few moorings on the River Avon in this stretch, but we hoped to moor somewhere near a pub so we could eat out. However there were no moorings at any convenient spot except just above Hanham and that was too soon. The next available were at Keynsham lock, but not fancied by either of us!

We continued up Swineford and Saltford locks, hoping there might be some moorings above Kelston lock at the Jolly Sailor. No such luck – all moorings taken, or private moorings or associated with Saltford Marina.

Along this stretch the cycleway follows the River, passing Kelston Park. The river passes under the A4 at New Bridge with its elegant stone arch. We were now on the outskirts of Bath. As we approached the bridge we spotted The Boat House pub, with moorings. We moored and settled the boat.

The moorings were technically not “overnight moorings” but we did not discover this until we went to the pub. No one was going to worry though, we were sure! We enjoyed an indifferent meal with slow service and were glad to hit the sac!

PS - "No Problem". Another one? - hardly, its a "fat boat" and not a patch on Sue and Vic's which now looks really good Sue!

What We Did, Where We Went

Epiphany is moored at Sydney Wharf, Bath. Again!
Blog of journey from Sydney Wharf to Bristol on Wednesday 26th September
14.76 miles, 8 hours, 14 locks, 3.59 l/mph

Today is Saturday - a rest and catch up day. This was a good decision at it is raining and not very nice! So it is time to catch up on our cruise blog!

On Wednesday we set off down the Bath locks, or the Widcombe flight, to the River Avon. This the pound between Abbey View Lock and Wash House Lock (11 and 10)

Despite my trepidation Bath deep lock was not so bad. I think it helped that I was videoing the experience! The result may be a bit like “watching paint dry”, but when edited I hope it will give a flavour of the experience!

The weather was very kind – if a little blowy and once on the river it was quite pleasant! There was no flow at all, and we only met one boat going down at Weston lock, the first lock.

I was surprised that the locks were so easy; Kelston Lock has lots of boats moored before and above the weir.

Saltford and Swineford Locks follow in quite quick succession.

Easy that was until we got to Keynsham lock – horrid, horrid lock!
It was empty, had heavy lock gear and gates and took an age to fill. It is also not the prettiest lock, feels neglected and looks out over a wooded section and the huge Cadbury factory alongside the river.


Hanham Lock is the last on the British Waterways stretch and we did as instructed and rang the lock keeper at Netham Lock to say we were on our way – “that’s OK, come on down” was the cheery reply.

As the river was behaving itself Netham lock was open. John had a very cheerful chat with the Harbour Master who was on duty, paid our dues for the licence and mooring in the Floating harbour and we set off down the feeder canal. This is basically a straight boring cut which leads into the approach to Bristol and the Floating Harbour. The River Avon hives off to port and is not seen again until after Cumberland Basin entrance lock as it joins up to run to the sea.

Once under the huge Temple Meads Bridge and past where we caught the ferry when we visited the Harbour Festival, we began to recognise things!
It was so good to be on our own boat though! The approach to the Harbour is lined with buildings, some new, some restored wharf buildings and some derelict. There are boats galore, of all types, shapes and condition.

We know that Prince Street Bridge was low – it is a swing bridge, but we only just squeezed under.
We are 2.1 meters from the waterline, including the Chinese hat on the chimney and the allowance was supposed to be 2.2! And yes we did have a full water tank!

The Harbour Master had suggested that the best place to moor would be past the SS Great Britain. We wanted to avoid the nightclubs in St Augustine’s reach and anyway there were quite a few narrowboats moored there. We sailed past all the boats, the Great Britain, The Matthew and moored up in splendid isolation opposite Hotwells.

A tip for you, if you ever do the same, think about your fenders. You will need a wide fender, tyre or lash up of 2 fenders (like us) as there are concrete bits jutting out. It would be Ok if the boat was 50ft or below I think. There is also a handy pub – The Cottage.

We were meeting John’s brother who very kindly was providing us with a meal at his house in Bristol. He picked us up and we had a great time with him and his family. Returning to the boat we spent a very quiet night.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

We Got There - More To Follow

Just to wet your appetite - a quick blog to say we got down to Bristol, spent overnight in the Floating Harbour opposite Hotwells. We are now on our way back - lots of pictures and one or two stories to share when I get more time!

In the meantime - how about this poem. I think it is rather good, but also very sad. Thank goodness things have improved on the K & A

The Old Canal: by “Mitch”

a member of St Michaels Without, Bath, printed in the Parish Magazine of September 2007

“Back in the 1960s, one of my favourite walks was along the Avon – Kennet Canal from Widcombe to Limpley Stoke. This piece of verse says what it looked like then!

‘Tis dawn. The old canal from slumber deep awakes
‘Neath coverlet of still enshrouding mist,
With lances held aloft, the reeds, in milit’ry array
Stand guard along the bank as tho’ the day should be resist’.

But in glory doth the sun arise, to cross the vaulted blue,
And light the hedgerow tall, with golden shaft,
Her dewy bosom lies agleam, enhung with diamond lace
In ‘splendant beauty from the spider’s craft.

Ve’ed ripples gently stir the yellow lily, as the vole,
E’er watchful, paddles silent to the bank,
To disappear in safety ‘neath the clustered marigold.
Deadly marigold! You may well grow dank!

In anguish doth the willow trail its cloak of sombre green
O’er long stagnated pool. Whilst all unheed’,
The dog-rose threads her Way thro’ tangled growth, and leans
To glimpse her blushing face betwix’ the reed.

Where steely hoof once sought to grip the narrow cinder way,
The bindweed, now a pink-flecked carpet twines,
And in the growth so verdant, where the earth and water’s meet,
Ragged robin courts the celandines.

Across the languid surface, weed encrusted now with time,
The gaudy flags triumphantly embrace,
To seal at last the quiet reach where busy moorhens throng,
And rotting hulk reclines to mar the grace.

So weep thou willows, weep, as nevermore
Will laden barge disturb the placid waters ‘neath thy shade,
And ne’er again shall sweaty flank brush past the scented way-
Their labour now is done, their bones have clayed."

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Dear Reader, More from Bath

Epiphany is still moored at Sydney Wharf, Bath

After a few jobs on the boat we walked into Bath again. The weather was rather cloudy and still breezy. We walked down Great Pulteney Street, which is well known for its Georgian Terraces and has been used in films of Jane Austen’s books.


Dear Reader, our destination was 40 Gay Street, about 10 minutes walk from the Kennet and Avon canal. Here is housed The Jane Austen Centre and exhibition. No. 40 is very similar to No. 25 where Jane Austen lived for a few months. John Wood, the elder and his son John Wood, the Younger built the houses between 1735 and 1760.

Jane actually lived in various houses around Bath for about five years from 1801 to 1806, but as the guide informed us, did not really like Bath. It is interesting to note, Dear Reader, that her books were first published (the first in 1811) without her name as author, as it was not the done thing for a lady to write. She was fortunate in having a supportive brother, Edward, but it was Henry who first brought her name to public notice in 1817, after her death.

As the daughter of a farming clergyman, she lived in relatively genteel poverty, moving from Hampshire to Bath where her father died. 4 years later the 3 women (Jane, her sister and her mother, both named Cassandra) moved into one of her rich brother Edward’s houses at Chawton, Hampshire. Here is "Jane" at her writing desk. She wrote in secret, on small pieces of paper, in extremely small handwriting.


At the moment there is an exhibition of the costumes created by Andrea Galer for the ITV production of Persuasion. You may remember it – I watched it and it was really good, especially as it had Rupert Penry-Jones of “Spooks” fame in it, drool drool!

In fact there is a 15-minute film in the exhibition with scenes from Persuasion including the last scene, which at the time had me in tears – as it did today. I won’t spoil it if you haven’t seen the film!

So, Dear Reader, if you are a Jane Austen fan this is a “must visit” when in Bath! However we disagree with her opinion of Bath – we love it!

We found a very interesting church today – St Michaels Without.
“Without” because it is a church without the city walls as in “There is a green hill far away, without the city walls….” Are you any the wiser? In olden days – "without" meant outside!

Inside it has been, as they call it – reordered. Any clergyman or PCC member will know what this means! The picture will explain.

We think it is very beautiful and has been done very sympathetically, still maintaining the atmosphere and feeling of a church. They are able to hold all sorts of events because of its versatility and the church can be used for what it was meant to be Рa community asset. The caf̩ there does really good tea and yummy flapjacks too - served today by the assistant curate, Revd. Steven Faux.

Finally we found the newest addition to Bath.

I think it is rather incongruous amongst the Spa area of the city. But we have been told that people really enjoy the experience available at the Thermae Bath Spa. It is rather expensive at £65 for 2 hours: so not for us!

So we say farewell to Bath tomorrow and brave the River Avon. I am definitely NOT looking forward to Bath Deep Lock! John assures me that we will be fine on the River, but rivers are not my favourite waterways. (yet! - Ed.)

Monday, September 24, 2007

Blogging In Bath

Epiphany is still moored at Sydney Wharf in Bath.

We spent the night here


This morning we moved to here!


The hire fleet was expected back so here we would be out of the way. However it blew a hoolie in the night and a tree came down at Candys bridge and no boats could pass. There was a canal block as they were unable to moor and waited abreast! BW was called to clear it. The hirers were rather stranded with cars here and at Bathampton. So no boats arrived!

As the forecast is not too great we have decided to spend 2 days in Bath and then go down the Widcombe Flight on Wednesday and onto the River Avon.

It is not far into Bath from Sydney Wharf so we walked into the city. John was photographer of the day so he is responsible for this flavour of Bath. Once again we have loads of more photos to add to an web album of our trip when we get back to broadband land!

So here is a selection of the "iconic" sights

Pulteney Bridge and weir, Garfunkel's on the left


Bath Abbey, Roman Baths and Pump Room


A typical side street with cafes and little shops. A little reminiscent of Salzburg?


The entrance to the K & A


This one is for family and close friends - fancy coming all this way to go back home!


When we got back to Sydney Wharf some of the hire fleet boats were safely gathered in! Some had gone back to Dundas.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Bradford To Bath In Pictures

Epiphany is moored at Sydney Wharf, Bath.
13 miles, 1 lock, 4 hours:2.28 l/mph.



We set off down Bradford on Avon lock - there were 2 boats in front of us so we had to wait. We shared the lock with an Anglo Welsh hire boat. There was a crew of 4 but it was definitely a boat where the boys did the work - eventually!


We didn't get to see the Tithe Barn yesterday so a photo from the canal would have to suffice!

Although there are lots of moored boats, among them are some interesting ones.
I am not sure I would like this creeping up my cabin though.


This stretch of the Kennet and Avon canal has a character of its own, views over the Avon valley, interesting bridges, aqueducts, lots of moored boats, including many "crusties", and then finally the approach to Bath and the trip through Sydney Gardens.

Crossing Avoncliff aqueduct Autumn is beginning to show it's face.

We approached Dundas aqueduct, spotting, in the distance, the Viaduct Inn on Brassknockers Hill.


Crossing Dundas aqueduct we could see that Dundas basin was busy.


An interesting sign warns of shallow edges to the canal
- at times it was certainly shallow, but boats managed to moor none the less!

At a very narrow point and also at a bridge who should we encounter but The John Rennie, Bath Narrowboats restaurant boat, available for charter. We were recognised as when they returned to Sydney Wharf we had a chat with the crew!

Nice to see her earning her keep on the cut Jon!

There are two swing bridges on this stretch - I had to open this one!


The George at Bathampton is to be recommended and gets very busy. It has moorings alongside and these are very popular!


It gradually came in to rain so by the time we moored at Sydney Wharf it was raining steadily. So plans for tomorrow - a visit into Bath, then possibly down the locks and onto the River Avon. There is nothing like being a cosy narrowboat with rain drumming on the roof, particularly if it has all the comforts of home!